segunda-feira, 23 de fevereiro de 2009

Desvendando Rótulos

Aqui está uma lista enorme de ingredientes muito utilizados em cosméticos para cabelos, incluindo a lista de silicones e sulfatos!

Os nomes estão todos em inglês, mas como são nomes técnicos não fica difícil a tradução.

Anionic surfactants - Detergency, foaming (limpeza e espuma)

Alkylbenzene sulfonates
Ammonium laureth sulfate: (pode ressecar o cabelo)
Ammonium lauryl sulfate: (pode ressecar bastante o cabelo)
Sodium laureth sulfate: (pode ressecar o cabelo)
Sodium lauryl sulfate: (pode ressecar bastante o cabelo)
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
Sodium myreth sulfate
Sodium Xylenesulfonate
Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
Sodium C14-16
Olefin SulfonateSodium cocoyl sarcosinate
TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulfate
Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate


Amphoteric surfactants - Used to provide mild cleansing, as well as some aid in foaming (limpeza mediana e espuma menos agressiva)

Cocamidopropyl betaine
Coco betaine
Cocoamphoacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
Disodium cocoamphodipropionate
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium cocoyl isethionate


Cationic surfactants - Quaternary Ammonium compounds:used to provide conditioning, some detergency, emulsion stabilization (usados para condicionar, promover pequena limpeza, emulsionar e estabilizar)

Behentrimonium chloride
Behentrimonium methosulfate (gentler)
Benzalkonium chloride
Cetrimonium chloride
Cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride
Cocotrimonium chloride
Dicetyldimonium chloride
Dicocodimonium chloride
Dihydrogenated tallow dimethylammonium chloride
Hydrogenated Palm Trimethylammonium chloride
Laurtrimonium chloride
Quaternium-15
Quaternium-18 Bentonite
Quaternium-18 Hectonite
Quaternium-22
Stearalkonium chloride
Tallowtrimonium chloride
Tricetyldimonium chloride


Nonionic surfactants - Used for gentle cleansing and for emulsion stabilization e estabilizar (usado para limpeza suave e estabilizante)

Decyl glucoside
Laureth-10 (lauryl ether 10)
Laureth-23
Laureth-4
PEG-10 Sorbitan LauratePolysorbate- (20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, 81)
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Sorbitol
Steareth- (2, 10, 15, 20)
C11-21 Pareth- (números entre 3 e 30, quanto maior o número mais solúvel em água e aumenta a quantidade de água presente)
C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester


Emulsifiers -Larger surfactants used to stabilize emulsions (droplets of oils in water) - usados para estabilizar

Caprylic/capric/diglyceryl succinate
C10-15 Pareth-(2,4,6,8) Phosphate
C14-16 Glycol Palmitate
C18-20 Glycol Isostearate
Ceteareth-(4-60)
Cocamidopropyl lauryl ether
Deceth-(3-10)
DIPA-hydrogenated cocoate
Dipentaerythrityl hydroxystearate
Dipentaerythrityl hydroxyisostearate
Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprate/caprylate
Dodoxynol-(5,6,7,9,12)
Nonoxynol-(1-35)
Octoxynol-(1-70)
Octyldodeceth-(2,5,16,20,25)
Palm kernel glycerides

Preservatives - conservantes

Butyl paraben
Diazolidinyl urea
DMDM Hydantoin
Ethyl paraben
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Isobutyl paraben
Methyl paraben
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Methylisothiazolinone
Phenoxyethanol
Propyl paraben
Sodium benzoate

Thickeners - fornece viscosidade

Aluminum stearates/isostearates/myristates/laurates/palmitates — qualquer mistura onde aparecerem
Glycol distearate
Hydrogenated castor oil
Hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate
Hydrogenated castor oil isostearate
Hydrogenated castor oil stearate
Hydrogenated castor PEG-8 esters
PEG150 distearate

Naturally derived polymers - Used for thickening of the product (usados para dar viscosidade)

Carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose
Carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar
Cellulose
Ethyl cellulose
Hydroxybutyl methylcellulose
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Hydroxymethylcellulose
Lauryl Polyglucose

Humectants - Attract water to the hair to keep the moisture content high (atrai água hidratando o cabelo)

1,2,6 hexanetriol
Butylene Glycol
Dipropylene glycol
GlycerinHexylene Glycol
PanthenolPhytantriol — aumenta a hidratação e absorção de vitaminas, panthenol, e amino ácidos
Propylene glycol
Sodium PCA
Sorbitol
Triethylene glycol
Polyglyceryl sorbitol
Glucose
Fructose
Polydextrose
Potassium PCA
Urea
Hydrogenated Honey
Hyaluronic Acid
Inositol
Hexanediol beeswax
Hexanetriol Beeswax
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hydrolyzed Silk
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Erythritol
Capryl glycol
Isoceteth-(3-10, 20, 30)
Isolaureth-(3-10, 20, 30)
Laneth-(5-50)
Laureth-(1-30)
Steareth-(4-20)
Trideceth-(5-50)


Cationic Polymers - Positively charged polymers that provide silkening and smoothing effects by adhering to the surface of the hair due to the hair’s overall negative charge (promovem sedosidade e maciez, aderindo na superfície do cabelo devido a carga negativa)

Polyquaternium-10
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-11
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride


Silicones - Used to add shine and gloss to hair, decrease combing friction and tangling, provide conditioning, and act as humectants (usado para promover brilho e encapamento, diminui atrito, condiciona e promove umectação)


Amodimethicone - não solúvel em água se sozinho na fórmula
Amodimethicone e Trideceth-12 e Cetrimonium Chloride - presentes na mesma fórmula se tornam solúveisem água
Behenoxy Dimethicone Sparingly - solúvel em água
Dimethicone Copolyol - solúvel em água
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane - solúvel em água
Lauryl methicone copolyol - solúvel em água

Cetearyl methicone - não solúvel em água

Cetyl Dimethicone - não solúvel em água
Cyclomethicone - não solúvel em água Cyclopentasiloxane - não solúvel em água

Dimethicone - não solúvel em água
Dimethiconol - não solúvel em água
Stearyl Dimethicone - não solúvel em água
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone - não solúvel em água
Phenyl Trimethicone* - adicionado à lista pela pesquisa da Lina - não solúvel em água
Dimethylpolysiloxane* -
adicionado à lista pela pesquisa da Ana Júlia - mão solúvel em água

  • adicionados à lista abaixo pela pesquisa da Dai (fonte) TODOS SOLÚVEIS.
  • PEG-7 Amodimethicone
  • Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate
  • Ammonium Dimethicone PEG-7 Sulfate
  • Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate,
  • Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate,
  • Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate,
  • Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate,
  • Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate,
  • Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate,
  • Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate,
  • PEG-3 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-7 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-8 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-9 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-10 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-12 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-14 Dimethicone,
  • PEG-17 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone,
  • PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone -

Organic oils - Emollient effects, conditioning (efeito emoliente e condicionante)

Mineral oil
Paraffin
Petrolatum
Vaselina


Proteins - Humectants, conditioners (umectante e condicionante)

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids
Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
Cocoyl hydrolyzed keratinHydrolyzed keratin
Hydrolyzed oat flour
Hydrolyzed silk
Hydrolyzed silk protein
Hydrolyzed soy protein
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
KeratinPotassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein


Vitamins - vitaminas

Retinol
Retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A)
Tocopherol acetate (Vitamin E)


Emollient Esters - Provide conditioning to the hair and give a soft, smooth feel (condicionante e amaciante)

Butyl myristate
Butyl stearate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetyl octanoate
Cetyl stearate
Cetearyl stearate
Decyl oleate
Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl adipate
Glyceryl arachidate
Glyceryl arachidonate
Glyceryl behenate
Glyceryl caprate
Glyceryl caprylate
Glyceryl caprylate / caprate
Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate
Glyceryl cocoate
Glyceryl Diarachidate
Glyceryl Dibehenate
Glyceryl Dierucate
Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate
Glyceryl Diisopalmitate
Glyceryl Diisostearate
Glyceryl Dilaurate
Glyceryl Dilinoleate
Glyceryl Dimyristate
Glyceryl Dioleate
Glyceryl Dipalmitate
Glyceryl Dipalmitoleate
Glyceryl Diricinoleate
Glyceryl Distearate
Glyceryl Erucate
Glycol stearate
Isocetyl stearate
Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Isopropyl stearate
Isostearyl stearate
Octyl palmitate
Octyl stearate
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Sorbitan benzoate
Sorbitan caprylate
Sorbitan isostearate
Sorbitan laurate
Sorbitan Tristearate
Stearyl stearate
Tocopheryl linoleate

Alkanolamides - Emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controlling agents (emulsificantes, estabilizadores, surfactantes, controlador de viscosidade)

Acetamide MEA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Lactamide MEA
Lauramide DEA
Lauramide DEA & Propylene Glycol
Lauramide MEA
Lecithinamide DEA
Linoleamide DEA
Linoleamide MEA
Linoleamide MIPA
Myristamide DEA
Myristamide MEA
Myristamide MIPA
Oleamide DEA
Oleamide DEA
Oleamide MEA
Oleamide MIPA
Soyamide DEA
Stearamide MEA

Amines - Emulsifiers and conditioning agents (emulsificadores e condicionantes)

Behentamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine
Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Palmitamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Tallamidopropyl Dimethylamine


pH-adjusters - Used in very small amounts (Ajustadores de PH, usados em pouca quantidade)

Ascorbic acid
Citric acid
Sodium hydroxideTriethanolamine


Salts - Often used to enhance thickness (viscosity) of the product (dão viscosidade)

Calcium chloride
Magnesium chloride
Magnesium sulfate: adiciona volume e ativa cachos
Potassium chloride
Potassium glycol sulfate
Sodium Chlorideclth:329.15pt;padding:.75pt .75pt 0in .75pt; height:15.75pt


Fatty Alcohols - Provide emollient effect, lubricity, emulsion stabilization (emolientes, promovem lubrificação, estabilizam)

Behenyl alcohol
Cetearyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Isocetyl alcohol
Isostearyl alcohol
Lauryl alcohol
Myristyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol
C30-50 Alcohols
Lanolin alcohol

UV Filters/sunscreens- Filtro Solar

Benzophenone-2, ( or 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
Benzophenone-4
Benzyl salicylate
Benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid
Bornelone
Ethyl cinnamate
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octyl methoxycinnamate)
Octoxynol-40, -20
Octyl methoxycinnamate
Octyl Salicylate
Oxybenzone
Phenyl ketone
PEG-25 PABA
Polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor

Natural Oils - Provide emolliency, conditioning, add shine - emolientes, condicionantes e adicionam brilho

Coconut oil
Jojoba oil
Olive oil
Palm Oil
Safflower Oil
Sesame seed oil
Shea butter
Sweet almond oil
Wheat germ oil

Amine Oxides - Used to help disperse dyes in product - ajudam a dispersar corantes

Cocamine oxide
Lauramine oxide

Chelating agents - Used in small amounts to react with metal ions present in the product or in the water, in order to improve stability or performance of the product - usados em pequenas quantidades para reagirem com metais e aumentar estabilidade

Diiospropyl oxalate
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA-copper
EDTA
HEDTA
Oxalic acid
Potassium or sodium citrate
Sodium oxalate
TEA-EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA
Trisodium EDTA
Trisodium HEDTA

Fatty Acids - Used as emulsifying agents, emulsion stabilizers - agente emulsificante e estabilizante

Arichidonic acid
Capric Acid
Coconut Fatty Acid
Lauric acid
Linoleic acid
Linolenic acid
Myristic Acid
Palmitic acid
Pantothenic acid
Stearic acid
Caproic acid
Capryleth-(4,6,9) carboxylic acid
Isostearic acid

Anti-Microbials/ Antibacterial - bactericida

Glyoxal
Triclosan
PEG-materiais modificados - Usados para emulsionar, são surfactantes, umectantes e fazem com que moléculas não solúveis em água sejam mais facilmente dissolvidas - existem muitos aprovados para uso
PEG-150 Pentaerythirtyl Tetrastearate
PEG- 2, -3, -4, -6, -8, -12, -20, -32, -50, -150, -175 Distearate - viscosidade
PEG-10 castor oil
PEG-10 cocamine
PEG-10 cocoate
PEG-10 coconut oil esters
PEG-10 glyceryl oleate
PEG-10 glyceryl pibsa tallate
PEG-10 glyceryl stearate
PEG-10 hydrogenated lanolin
PEG-10 hydrogenated tallow amine
PEG-10 isolauryl thioether
PEG-10 isostearate
PEG-10 lanolate
PEG-10 lanolin
PEG-10 laurate
PEG-10 oleate
PEG-10 olive glycerides
PEG-10 polyglyceryl-2 laurate
PEG-10 propylene glycol
PEG-10 sorbitan laurate
PEG-10 soya sterol
PEG-10 soyamine
PEG-10 stearamine
PEG-10 stearate
PEG-10 stearyl benzonium chloride
PEG-10 tallate
PEG-10 tallow aminopropylamine
PEG-100PEG-100 castor oil
PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil
PEG-100 lanolin
PEG-100 stearate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60..etc.
PEG-55 Propylene glycol Distearate

Miscellaneous Polymers - There are many, and they are used for a variety of purposes - muitos propósitos.

Carbomer: polímero usado para viscosidade.
Dodecanedioic acid/cetearyl alcohol/glycol copolymer: polímero usado para viscosidade. Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers: polímero usado para formar filme protetor
Hydrogenated ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer: polímero usado para formar filme protetor
Polyacrylic acid: polímero usado para viscosidade, emulsificar, selar e formar filme protetor.
Polymethyl methacrylate: polímero usado para formar filme protetor Polyvinyl acetate: polímero usado para formar filme protetor
Polyvinyl alcohol: polímero usado para formar filme protetor PPG: Polímero usado para viscosidade e estalizar emulsões.
PPG-25-Laureth-25: Polímero usado para viscosidade e estalizar emulsões.
PPG-5 Pentaerithrityl ether: Polímero usado para viscosidade e estalizar emulsões.
PPG-75-PEG-300-hexylene glycol: polímero usado para viscosidade.
PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone): polímero usado para viscosidade.
PVP/VA (polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer): polímero usado para viscosidade.
Sodium carbomer: polímero usado para viscosidade. TEA-carbomer: polímero usado para viscosidade.
Poloxamer (100-407): polímero usado para emulsificar e surfactar
Poloxamine (followed by a number): polímero usado para emulsificar e surfactar
Polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid: polímero usado para formar filme protetor
Polyethylene terephthalate: polímero usado para formar filme protetor


Anti-static agents - Reduce static charge build-up and fly-away hair - redutor de estática

Apricotamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Apricotamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Lauramidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Lauramidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Linoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Linoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Myristamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Myristamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate
Stearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Stearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Lactate

Alcohols - Used a solvent, can be drying to the hair - usados como solventes, podem ressecar o cabelo.

SD alcohol 40
Witch hazel
Isopropanol


Ainda sobre os silicones, aqui vai mais uma listinha, encontrada em outra página: http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curly-q-a/whats-the-scoop-on-silicones

Fonte: Naturally Curly
Retirado do Blog Terapia Deva.

4 comentários:

Marcela disse...

Pronto! Agora posso fazer meus cosméticos em casa!!!!! :p
Muito rica e informativa a postagem, Dai! Amei!

Anônimo disse...

Olá, shampoo que contém SODIUM TRIDECETH SULFATE é liberadp para low-poo??

Luciene Cândido disse...

Amei esse post! Apesar de ser informação demais pra minha cabecinha rsrsrz.

Kelly Dias disse...

O Dimethicone usado com o laureth 4 e laureth 23 pode ser usado no Low poo?

Encaracoladas!

:D